Great Tastes in Local Foods: Winter 2022

By Crysta Coburn

Photos by Susan Ayer

The Ebenezer

I watched in fascination as the bartender held what looked to me like a hot glue gun above the martini glass. A bubble filled with gray smoke formed at the gun’s tip and grew to nearly the size of a baseball. The bubble joined with the pink liquid in the glass, forming a dome over the top. 

“This one’s yours,” said the barman as he carefully slid the martini my way. 

After marveling at the smoke held within the bubble, I slowly reached out my hand and tapped the bubble’s surface with my forefinger. It popped, and the trapped smoke swirled and dispersed into the air. Now that’s a cocktail!

The Ebenezer is a cocktail lounge with a distinct speakeasy vibe located in downtown Plymouth. The entrance is not obvious, unless you know where to look. The address is on Fleet Street, which runs behind Main Street and serves as the backdoor to many of the businesses located on Main and Penniman. You will find the door to the Ebenezer nestled in the corner where Fleet Street makes a sharp turn to the northwest. 

You enter into a dark hallway painted completely black and illuminated only by bare red light bulbs that lead you to the next door, also painted black, with an eye-shaped window. You have arrived. 

Have a seat at the bar, where you can watch the cocktail magic happen, or grab a table, perhaps the one with the leather sofas on either side, or a wingback chair. The Ebenezer is all about having a low-key, cozy place to grab a drink and share some delicious small plate dishes with your friends or significant other. (If I were still in that scene, I would absolutely take a date here.)

Not having a reservation, my husband and I took a pair of seats at the bar where we bantered a bit with the bartenders and a few fellow patrons. The smoky cocktail that I ordered was called the Rose Martini. It tasted like raspberry limeade. I never tired of watching a few other Rose Martinis being made and recommended it to curious patrons who asked what I was drinking.

The small plates menu is extensive, with some usual favorites like spinach artichoke dip, wings, charcuterie board, and sliders. But there are also Ahi Tuna Crisps (crispy wonton skins topped with thinly sliced ahi tuna, jalapeno, avocado, and their signature soy sauce), shrimp and crab ceviche (served with crostini), truffle mac and cheese bites, and more. I tried the ceviche, finding it fresh and delicious, while my husband ordered the parmesan truffle french fries. The fries came with a little cup of ketchup and another cup of garlic aioli, which tasted divine. 

In addition to the signature cocktails (including some tantalizing dessert cocktails), there is a good wine selection and mocktails for those who do not drink alcohol. If you would like a table, or are a large group, I strongly suggest making a reservation. You are bound to have a great time!

The Ebenezer is located at 305 Fleet Street in Plymouth. They are open Tuesday through Thursday from 4 p.m. to midnight, Friday and Saturday from 4 p.m. to 2 a.m., and closed on Sunday and Monday. For more information, visit theebenezerplymouth.com, email info@theebenezerplymouth.com, or call (734) 404-5552. 

The Boro

Northeast of Ann Arbor proper is the mostly rural community of Dixboro. Most of us are probably familiar with the Dixboro General Store or the Humane Society of Huron Valley, both prominent features of the region. But there is something new to check out in Dixboro, the Boro.

The Boro is a restaurant venture with two components. The Boro to Go is an all-day take-out cafe with coffee, tea, and other hot beverage options; morning pastries as well as light lunch and dinner options; woodfired pizzas; desserts; and beverages-to-go (both alcoholic and non). The Boro Dining Room and Bar is their dine-in experience open for dinner that serves plates to share, such as giardiniera, oysters, focaccia, and prawns; entrees that include spaghetti, lobster, scallops, pork loin, duck, steaks, and hamburgers; woodfired pizzas; accompaniments like potato puffs and green beans with prosciutto vinaigrette; and a selection of cocktails, wine, and beer.

The very modern corrugated steel building incorporates a 140-year-old barn with the original stone fireplace. The outdoor deck offers beautiful views and the peaceful sounds of nature. Fleming Creek flows through the property, and the Boro’s website promises that “if you come early for breakfast, you will be serenaded by the roosters from the yard next door.” 

Read related article: Great Tastes in Local Food, Winter 2017

Unfortunately, I am not an early riser, so there were no roosters for me. Because our lives have been busy lately, my husband and I decided to try the Boro To Go one day when we knew we would arrive home late and have no energy to cook dinner. Ordering through the website is easy, and when you click on a Lunch & Dinner or Pizza item, a list of allergens is included alongside Modifications and Special Instructions. You mark the boxes next to your dietary needs. 

Because I ordered the Italian Meat and Cheese Sandwich and marked the box next to Wheat Allergy, the people preparing our dinner forewent the usual baguette and put the fixings on a bed of lettuce, which was so delicious that I think they need to add an Italian Meat and Cheese Salad to the menu. My husband thoroughly enjoyed his woodfired pineapple pizza with san marzano tomatoes, capocollo, smoked ham, and cheddar with a side of chili oil. The Wisco-Pops that we ordered for beverages left something to be desired. I should have gone with my instinct and ordered a Pumpkin Spice Latte with housemade syrup, but I didn’t want the coffee to disrupt my sleep. 

The Boro seems to still be evolving and promises seasonal dishes from local sources. This a spot you will want to keep your eye on.

The Boro is located at 5400 Plymouth Road in Ann Arbor. The Boro To Go is open from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. every day of the week. The Boro Dine-In is open from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday, closed on Monday and Tuesday. For more information, visit theborotogo.com, email info@thedixboroproject.com, or call (734) 669-3310.

MI Juice Garden

Do you like freshly pressed juice? Do you like acai bowls? If you answered yes to either of these questions, then you have got to stop by MI Juice Garden at the corner of Platt and Ellsworth in Ann Arbor. As soon as you step inside, you can smell the delicious fresh fruits in the air.

You can get your bowl and juice to go; there is even a refrigerator with bottles of pre-pressed juice if you are in a real hurry. There are also a few tables with chairs as well as some Adirondack chairs whose backs are shaped like the lower peninsula and a small table shaped like the U.P. 

Because my husband and I stopped in during the fall, the specialty juice blends menu included themed juices like Dracula, which got its deep red color from beets. I ordered the Popeye, a sweeter option deriving much of its flavor from pomegranates, strawberries, and kiwis (it also has spinach and ginger). You don’t have to stick to the signature blends, however. If you feel confident enough, you can choose your own blend of fruits, vegetables, greens, and spices. 

The acai bowl can also be built to suit. Among the several toppings are strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, gluten-free granola, walnuts, chocolate chips, honey, and, for an extra dollar, peanut butter. It was incredibly tempting to order a bowl with everything, but I wasn’t sure it would actually taste very good, and looking back, I am not sure it would have all fit in the bowl, there are that many options. 

If you are looking for a healthy meal-to-go, you can, of course, order upon arrival, or you can log onto DoorDash and order for pick-up or delivery. DoorDash also lists salads, sandwiches, wraps, and more. What a fantastic addition to the south side’s lunch-scape!

MI Juice Garden is located at 3980 Platt Road in Ann Arbor. They are open Monday through Saturday from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. For more information, visit facebook.com/Mi-Juice-Garden-101762538450934 or call (734) 929-4836.

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Great Tastes in Local Food-- Winter 2020

By Crysta Coburn, Photography by Rachel Everheart

19 Drips Coffee and  Tea

There is no doubt about it, Ann Arbor loves its coffee! As a freelancer, I am always on the lookout for a new place to meet with collaborators, get some work done, or just kick back and relax with a tasty beverage alone or joined by loved ones. 19 Drips Coffee and Tea more than fits the bill.

Owned and operated by local father-son team, Hisham and Saeed Ebrahim, 19 Drips is located on the thin strip of West Liberty Street between Maple and Stadium roads. It’s cozy, simply decorated, and, despite its small size, 19 Drips provides several spots for intimate conversation or to hunker down with a book or laptop. Along the front window is bar seating with high-backed stools. While I was there, smooth jazz played on the stereo. 

19 Drips sources its beans from fair trade farmers across the globe. The beans are then tested and locally roasted weekly. Per its website, “Every coffee we bring is inspected pre and post roasting, giving us the opportunity to get the beans we want to share with our community.” 

Many different brewing methods are offered, such as drip, pour over, Chemex, AeroPress, French press, and more. I can’t speak to the benefits of all of these various methods, but I admit that I have not seen so many offered together in one shop and it impressed me. I ordered a con miel, one of my favorites less commonly found, and was not at all disappointed. Of course, you can also order an espresso, Americano, cappuccino, latte, mocha, and more. 

Visit Fresh Forage online to learn more.

Also on the menu are nine different teas, including another favorite of mine, the matcha latte, a latte-like drink made with powdered green tea. If you’re feeling peckish, 19 Drips offers sandwiches, oatmeal, honeycomb bread, sabaya (a layered sweet bread), Le Waf artisan waffles, and cookies. Customers are welcomed to ask about the weekly specials.

19 Drips isn’t a crowded coffee shop with an overbearing menu. It’s a neighborhood coffee shop that takes care and pride in its product. And it has been a wonderful addition to Ann Arbor’s far west side, where the busy intersection of Jackson and Maple roads can make things feel a little hectic. It’s refreshing to tune out the traffic, settle in, sip a cup of joy, and enjoy a sweet snack.

19 Drips Coffee and Tea is located at 2263 West Liberty Street in Ann Arbor. They are open Sunday through Thursday from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. For more information, contact them online at www.19drips.com or call (734) 585-0461. 

Fillmore Bar & Grill

As you head toward downtown Dexter, you may well miss the Fillmore Bar & Grill as the building is a beautifully converted single-family home on Ann Arbor Street. Bright white columns and trim stand out against the dark blue siding, and concrete steps lead up to the front porch and front door. You may feel like you are visiting someone’s home rather than a trendy hangout. 

Once I stepped through the front door, the house illusion slipped, and I found myself in the main bar area. The floor of the second floor had been removed, doubling the height of the bar’s ceiling and infusing the area with a sense of ease and openness. Natural light comes in through the (former) second floor windows, which keeps the room from feeling too dark. Being used to sparsely lit, hole-in-the-wall or basement brewpubs, I was surprised by the choice of light wall paint. 

I think this is part of what sets the Fillmore apart. It is not a dark and brooding space, but light and fun, a place you can kick back with your friends, enjoy a few drinks, some good food, and maybe watch a game on the TV behind the bar. It’s also clean and sophisticated, but not ostentatious. It’s a neighborhood bar that suits its surroundings. 

On to the food! The menu pulls together several popular dishes, such as poutine, spinach dip, chicken wings, pretzel sticks, and offers the Fillmore’s own unique twist on each. Among the appetizers, you will also find items like Pan Seared Scallops and Pork Belly Bibimbap, so there is something for everyone. The Happy Hour Five Cheese dip is quite tasty and segues nicely into a French fry dip when the entree arrives. There are several clearly marked on the menu gluten-free and vegetarian options. Buns can be substituted with a lettuce wrap. 

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I couldn’t resist ordering one of my favorite meals, steak frites. The steak was melt-in-my-mouth tender, each bite a delight. My husband chose the Korean Barbecue Burger, which is such a great combination of flavors. The fries are great even without any special dipping sauces (though the dipping sauces are also pretty tasty). He also ordered a Mule Beer by Short’s that did, indeed, taste like the ginger and lime cocktail Moscow Mule, and he’s still telling people about it weeks later. 

Our server was personable and happy to offer comments and suggestions on the menu options. I love it when a restaurant’s staff is both knowledgeable and enthusiastic about what they’re offering. When they take a vested interest in my experience, I feel more emotionally invested in it, and that enhances the meal. (The reverse is also true.) 

If you are in the area, drop by. When the weather cooperates, there is a large and lovely deck for outdoor seating. Treat yourself!

The Fillmore Bar & Grill is located at 7954 Ann Arbor Street in Dexter. They are open Monday through Thursday from 3 p.m. to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Happy Hour is every day from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. For more information, visit fillmorebarandgrill.com or call (734) 426-3727. 

Shimmy Shack

Shimmy Shack began as a popular vegan and gluten-free food truck in 2013 as a test to see if people were ready for such a restaurant. The answer seems to have been a resounding yes, and now, in addition to the truck, Shimmy Shack has a brick and mortar location in Plymouth, and it has not lost any of its charm. Shimmy Shack is in its element!

The clouds were heavy and a light rain was falling on the day I first visited. Safely tucked under the overhang beside the front door was a rack of “recycled and repurposed” clothing. How perfect, I thought, for a business that is devoted to kitsch and lightening the load of our carbon footprints. 

Once through the door, I knew I was in for a treat. The tables, chairs, and stools are all mixed and matched vintage pieces, no two settings alike. I didn’t feel like I had stepped back in time so much as the best pieces of kitchens past had come together to create a colorful, eclectic, welcoming space. I think a lot of thought and care went into creating this unique restaurant, yet it comes across as effortless and just plain fun!

Of course, I was there for the food, too, and the all vegan and gluten-free menu is definitely a star. I immediately saw Shimmy’s scrumptious cookies, which I know from local Ann Arbor cafes (such as the Crazy Wisdom Tea Room), but I managed to forge ahead and pass them by in favor of a Cookie Monster shake (their own cowgirl cookie blended with vanilla soy ice cream), a Shimmy Coney (grilled Lightlife® brand soy hotdog, vegan chili, mustard, and finely chopped onion on a grilled gluten-free bun), sweet potato fries, and garlic dipping sauce. 

Shimmy’s menu is obviously diner-inspired with burgers, coneys, pitas, chili, nachos, fries, soups, shakes, and some other fun surprises. It proves that vegan food doesn’t have to be fancy or out-of-reach for the average person. What is more traditionally American than burgers and fries? What says “Michigan” more than a coney dog? Shimmy brings what might seem like a difficult food choice well within everybody’s reach. 

If you are a meat-eater (as I am), the occasional opening up of your diet to new choices and possibilities won’t hurt you. Next to the register is a sign that offers different reasons to go vegan, including allergies, weight and health, religion/spirituality, family, compassion, and the environment. Even cutting down on meat consumption one day a week can have an impact on all of these areas as well. (#MeatlessMonday, anyone?) 

I know there are people who may worry about being “preached at” at a restaurant like this, but I never felt that way at all. It’s a celebration of good food. I myself have a restricted diet, so Shimmy’s menu is great for me. If you, too, have food intolerances or allergies, you may well rejoice! Especially with those cookies. 

Shimmy Shack is located at 1440 Sheldon Road in Plymouth. They are open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., closed Mondays. For more information, visit shimmyshack.com or call (734) 228-5990. 

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Great Tastes in Local Food

By Crysta Coburn

Tasty Bakery

One morning, while running a tad late for work, I decided to cut through the Ann Arbor Farmers’ Market in hopes of snagging a quick breakfast. Tasty Bakery to the rescue! 

A chocolate-dipped donut might not sound like the healthiest choice to jump-start the day, but this donut was “wheat free, gluten free, soy free, organic” and “naturally sweetened.” It was also deeply satisfying for both my sweet tooth and my tummy. A lot of donuts are still full of the oil they were cooked in, leaving grease stains behind on napkins and not always settling well in my stomach. After indulging in this Tasty Bakery delectable, I felt great!

I’m not gluten intolerant, so I don’t have to “settle” for gluten-free “facsimiles of real food,” as I have sometimes heard gluten-free breads and baked goods referred to. Let’s get one thing straight right now: you are not “settling” at Tasty Bakery. Their products are just as flavorful as gluten-filled baked goods, and, as I said before, sometimes even more satisfying. I could have eaten three donuts and still felt fine! (Probably. I haven’t tried this. Yet.)

Naturally, when faced with a table full of sweets on an empty stomach, I couldn’t leave with just one thing, so I also grabbed a gluten-free chocolate chip cookie. I could have gone with a cookie that was also vegan, but I decided to go the non-vegan route because I was curious to see how just the gluten-free cookie stacked up against its traditional counterpart. Conclusion: they stand toe-to-toe. I loved it! I’d like to try the vegan next.

On another occasion, while getting a coffee from Sweetwaters in downtown Ann Arbor, I also grabbed a Tasty Bakery Berry Bar, made with “organic gluten-free oats, organic blueberries, organic coconut oil, organic coconut nectar, arrowroot flour, organic Madagascar vanilla, sea salt.” The packaging was also compostable, so you can see not only is Tasty Bakery dedicated to making gluten-free delicious and accessible, but they are also committed to better health for us and our environment.
 
I’ve made gluten-free baked goods before (check my blog foodandword.blogspot.com for that time I famously attempted gluten-free paczki), so I know it can be a tricky business to get the balance right. There are a lot of traditional wheat flour substitutes out there. Arrowroot flour is popular, as is featured in Tasty Bakery’s Berry Bar. They clearly have gluten-free baking down to an art, and Ann Arbor knows it. You can find their products in coffee shops all over town (check their website for a full list). Don’t be afraid to try them! Your mouth (and tummy) will love you for it.

Tasty Bakery’s storefront is located at 416 West Huron Street, Suite 24, Ann Arbor, Michigan 48103. It is open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Friday. Find them on Saturdays at the Ann Arbor Farmers’ Market in Kerrytown from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. and online at www.tastysansgluten.com.

Big City Small World Bakery

If there is a quintessentially Michigan food, it is the pasty. Usually, this is a delight attributed to the U.P. or at least the northern region of the Mitten. But on the corner of Spring and Miller streets in Ann Arbor at Big City Small World Bakery, pasties are on the menu and they are served up flaky and hot. 

I had dropped by for a quick lunch before work, but I was thinking I’d get a simple sandwich and soy latte, not a pasty and a latte made with coconut milk. I’ve never seen coconut milk as a milk substitute on a menu before, so I had to give it a try. Since switching to dairy-free coffee drinks — a hard transition for me — I have often been disappointed. Soy is okay and almond is great with chai. But now? In the Milk Substitute Competition, I give the blue ribbon to Coconut. Thank you, Big City Small World, for giving me the most delicious faux latte I have had yet!

As for the pasty, I ordered chicken, but they also offer veggie, which I intend to try on another trip, and the gravy is homemade and quite flavorful. The sandwich choices also include veggie, as well as turkey and egg salad, all on homemade bread (which they also sell in loaves). In fact, all of their baked goods are homemade.

I’ve been a fan of Big City Small World’s infamous vegan ding dongs for quite some time. (It’s an absolute mystery to me how they’ve managed to make vegan pastries so creamy and moist. It’s wonderful.) I find Big City Small World to be a great place to find vegan goodies like this.
 For those who aren’t fans of chocolate layer cake with vanilla frosting dipped in chocolate, I recommend the eclairs. The custard is rich and delicious! (Though this one is probably not vegan, but it wouldn’t surprise me if they had a vegan option.) For coconut lovers, try the golf ball-sized macaroons. They offer a range of gluten-free items as well. 

The “world” isn’t the only thing that is “small” here. The bakery is quaint with a few options for indoor seating. If the weather is pleasant, there is ample outdoor seating, where you can admire the eclectic art that covers the side of the brightly painted yellow building, or cast nervous glances at the unexpected wire mermaid sitting on the bench. After the bakery is closed, I like to think of her as a gargoyle-like guardian for nighttime pedestrians. During the day, she’s just another friendly face inviting me in for a ding dong and a coconut milk latte. 

Big City Small World Bakery is located at 500 Miller Ave., Ann Arbor, Michigan 48103. They are open Tuesday through Friday 7 a.m. to 7 p.m., Saturday 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Sunday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. You can also find them on Facebook.

Encuentro Latino Restaurant

If you are familiar with downtown Ypsilanti, you may recall the Wolverine Grill. Well, the Wolverine is no longer there (moment of silence), but its location has been passed into obviously capable hands, and the new restaurant, Encuentro Latino, is serving up some seriously satisfying authentic Guatemalan cuisine.

The interior of Encuentro is still largely set up the way Wolverine was, with a line of booths down one side of the long and narrow space and a counter with stools lining the opposite wall, offering a cozy diner feel. (They also have diner prices!)

I started off my dining experience with an iced horchata. Whenever I order horchata from a new restaurant, I try not to get my hopes too high. There are countless recipes for horchata across the Spanish-speaking world. (For example, Mexican and Guatemalan horchata is typically rice-based, while in Spain tiger nuts are used, and Puerto Rico favors ground sesame seeds.) Some that I have tried are disappointingly watery and lack flavor. However, Encuentro’s horchata did not disappoint, with just the right amount of sweetness and spice.
 
I also tried the crispy chicken tacos from the appetizers list — “served with cabbage salad, tomato sauce and cheese.” Why has no one ever told me how perfectly shredded cabbage pairs with mayonnaise? It’s like they were made for each other! And the tomato sauce is to die for. A large part of why I ended up choosing the tortillas de harina for my entree is because it also features mayonnaise and tomato sauce. (Also yummy beef and scallions.)

Speaking of tortillas, Guatemalan tortillas are a little different than the ones you’re probably used to from Mexican restaurants. They are puffier, measuring about a quarter or a half-inch thick, reminiscent of pita bread, warm and wonderful. You can really sink your teeth in, especially if you opt for one of the pupusas (stuffed tortillas) on the menu. There are pupusas de chicharron with pork, as well as vegetarian pupusas de frijol.

Tragically, I did not try the desserts, though both the creme brulee (my favorite dessert) and tres leches were definitely calling my name. Since Encuentro is within walking distance of my home, I know I will return. My mouth is also watering for their breakfast menu and its promise of fried plantains! Hasta pronto, Encuentro.

Encuentro Latino Restaurant is located at 228 West Michigan Ave., Ypsilanti, Michigan 48197. Find them online at www.facebook.com/Encuentro-Latino-restaurant-106983366342816/. They are open Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. until 8 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 8 a.m. until 8 p.m.

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